Gliding across the legendary Loch Ness aboard the Spirit of Scotland – a five-star barge navigating the Caledonian Canal – felt like something out of a dream. The sun was shining (rare magic in Scotland), and only by sailing through it can one truly grasp the vastness of Loch Ness. The Scottish Highlands’ scenery is breathtaking, and the sense of peace is beyond compare. European Waterways has nailed the art of luxury barge travel with over 40 years sailing and serving.
The Beginning
We were picked up in Inverness and delivered in minutes to Muirtown’s marina with a champagne welcome aboard the Spirit of Scotland. We’d expected cramped quarters below deck but were pleasantly surprised to find a navigable cabin with ample space and a comfortable bed. We quickly unpacked and grabbed umbrellas by the door to explore the surroundings on a misty day.
Along the way we chatted with locals walking their dogs by the water’s edge of Moray and Beauly Firths. We recognized Kessock Bridge, having seen it last year from Castle Stuart Golf Course and sang, “We’ve seen Kessock from both sides now.”
Our Crew
Cruise Director – Olivia – Captain Liv has worked nearly every role in multiple countries, except piloting. Now she leads the team with effortless grace through a week free of hiccups.
The Pilot – Krishna – The most fascinating human on the boat, Krishna is a voice-over artist, actor, vintner, author, former theater manager in London, and founder of a cricket club (whose honorary president is Mick Jagger!). He has piloted hot air balloons, and barges for decades and with many a tale to share, he’s mentoring the next generation of pilots with wisdom: “The less you do, the better it works out.”
The Deckhand – Tom – From Ipswitch like his sister, Liv, Tom inherited a knack for retelling history. Ever helpful with readying bikes, the spa, handling the ropes or apprenticing as helmsman, he exhibits a kind demeanor.
The Hosts – Sara Lou and Lauren – Sarah Lou with an esprit de vivre introduces wine and cheese with a seductive French accent while Lauren ensures you do not miss “a bit” with her lovely British lilt. Their duties are endless, and they complete them tirelessly.
The Chef – Jim – A man of few words, Jim was indubitably the star of the show displaying his culinary prowess with Michelin artistry. The Scot studied in Jersey and set the gastronomical stage for the cruise serving a braised beef dinner that blew us away. He did warn in his introduction (with champagne and canapes) that his goal was to make our clothes not fit by the cruise’s conclusion. He’s an over achiever. Jim is a wiz at concocting gourmet meals with special sauces, local seafood, mysterious microgreens and irresistible desserts. His foraging and flavor composition made every morsel brilliant.
Our Barge
Modeled after traditional Scottish steamers, the Spirit of Scotland is a hotel barge designed for an intimate and luxurious experience, welcoming up to 12 guests in six stylish, air-conditioned cabins located below the main deck, each with its own en-suite shower/bathroom and three sizeable portholes – perfect for watching the scenery drift by at water level.
The captain’s bridge sits front and center on the main deck, with an open-air walkway around the front. Behind the pilot’s area, living spaces unfold generously – from the cozy open bar, game corner, and plush seating to the dining room with its grand windows, all the way to the back deck with comfortable chairs and a heated spa pool.
A spiral staircase leads to the top deck – our favorite, most expansive viewing area. Here you can strike the iconic “Titanic” pose at the rail (with a far happier ending) or recline under a blanket as the Scottish Highlands float past.
While the route is professionally navigated, you can count on getting lost. Lost in your thoughts as you sit on the top deck with the breeze in your hair. Lost in the marvel of the Highlands’ raw beauty. And yet, you may gain something too – perhaps perspective, a renewed appreciation for life, or even a quiet reset of your goals and purpose. Such is the effect of being aboard the Spirit of Scotland.
Daily Cruises
Day 1 Dochgarroch
“Make ready, Tom,” Krishna signals the start of the cruise, and we’re all excited for take-off. We back out, passing other moored boats in the marina as the Tomnahurich bridge swings open for us. Commuter cars wait while pedestrians wave as we glide through to our first flight of locks. It was the first of many, yet each one fascinated us anew – chatting with the lockkeepers and watching the pet parades.
Locks are feats of engineering that have stood the test of time, far outperforming many newer alternatives. Timing is key: the operation must be set in motion just right to lock and unlock the gates, allowing the water levels to change and lift or lower boats on the canal. Conversations spark between boaters as we wait or share the lock. The barge is slow while time speeds by. We were in for a heavenly week.
While docked in Dochgarroch, we were whisked off to Cawdor Castle, with gardens to rival the very best, like Butchart Gardens in Victoria, British Colombia. Cawdor was immortalized by Shakespeare’s Macbeth and featured in scenes from various film adaptations. The dowager Countess of Cawdor still lives in the castle part of the year and it is amazing.
Day 2 Fort Augustus
After a morning walk along the parallel river and a bike ride to spot the shaggy Highland “hairy coos,” we visited Culloden Moor where the museum and battlefield tour brought the history of kings, queens and Jacobites to life in dramatic and moving fashion. Later we stopped at the mystical standing stones that inspired Outlander, the beloved book and popular TV series featuring Claire, aka “Sassenach,” and Jamie, her time-traveling Highlander love. Returning to the Spirit of Scotland we were treated like royalty – grateful not to be transported to the hardships of earlier centuries.
We then cruised all afternoon through Loch Dochfour and across Loch Ness to Fort Augustus. Purple heather waved from the hills between the woodlands, with occasional ancient ruins, including the spectacular Urquhart Castle. There Krishna pirouetted our Spirit of Scotland in salute so we could fully absorb its splendor. Four hours zipped by with postcard-perfect views at every turn.
Day 3 Kytra
We loved the lively town of Fort Augustus, with its bustling shops and pubs along the flight of lochs – and the flights of birds of prey at The Highland Club. Originally built in 1720 by order of General Wade as a fort by the locks (due to galleons), it later became a Benedictine Monastery, then St. Benedictine’s Abbey. As history played out its complicated and sordid chapters, it eventually closed and is now a sought-after private residence complex.
It was a spectacular backdrop for the interactive bird demonstration. A hefty glove protected those brave enough for the birds of prey to alight on their arm. First came Dougie, a six-year-old South American barn owl with inquisitive eyes and velvety-soft head feathers which he liked to have petted. Next came Harris the hawk, then Angus who surprised everyone by landing not just on arms but on our heads! The grand finale was a regal bald eagle, heavy and majestic. Meeting a bald eagle’s gaze as it rests on your arm is a moment you’ll never forget, while trying to transfer the thought: “I’m not food.”
We shared this incredible experience with “Portlanders” from Oregon, aboard Spirit of Scotland’s sister barge, The Scottish Highlander, piloted by another Frenchman, Captain Daniel. Our ships shared the Fort Augustus lock, passing in opposite directions at the halfway point for each trip. Hats off to the pilots navigating such narrow passages. We docked for the night in nearby Kytra.
Day 4 Laggan
For a short section reaching the lock at Leviothan, we walked alongside the canal, admiring the landscape up close. We met an 89-year-old lady backpacking solo, looking for a café in what appeared to be the most remote spot of our route. We assured her Fort Augustus had it all. Later our barge mates said she waved and shouted something like “stay alive!” – or maybe she was singing, Stayin’ Alive. Either way, her daughters track her phone to ensure she’s still kicking.
While waiting for Spirit of Scotland, we helped the “ginger family” from England – a redheaded family of four, plus a red dog – manage their ropes through the lock. Bikes and wetsuits in tow, they were off on their weeklong canal holiday. We reboarded after the lock and set sail to Laggan, with a little Monet scenery along the way.
After lunch we motored off to Eileen Donan, the most photographed castle in Scotland – made famous by movies like The Highlander and James Bond’s The World is Not Enough. The minibus rides to each landmark were a scenic extension of the Highlands’ natural mosaic – woodlands, wildflowers and herds of sheep, swine, and the iconic hairy coos.
Day 5 Banavie
Our final day was very precious, being the last cruise. We crossed Loch Lochy to Gairlochy, rejoined the canal, and continued through Moy Bridge to our final mooring near Fort William, beneath Ben Nevis, the highest peak in Great Britain. Just steps away was the famed Neptune’s Staircase: a dramatic set of eight locks enabling passage from the North Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. Every lock was a reminder of how Dad “surprised” Mom each anniversary with a visit to the Eisenhower Locks on the St. Lawrence Seaway. We had only one lock experience during our 12-year lake house restoration in New York – on the Erie Canal, but we were known on our lake as the couple who spent the most time on the water.
This week? It was like our own perpetual pontoon ride on steroids, but with a crew of six, just for us. All chill; all joy.
Our final excursion was to the Dalwhinnie Distillery, built in 1898. It’s the highest, coldest distillery in Scotland but the mash room was steamy, the educational tasting tour engaging. Interestingly, it is now owned by Diageo – the same company that owns Bulleit in Kentucky, where we visited back in May. Cue the tune: “It’s a small world, after all.”
Our Surprises
Each day brought carefully orchestrated surprises, courtesy of Liv. Scottish guests in full regalia, a live dress-up session with Ian in ancient garb. Alan, the kilt maker and bagpiper joked as he explained the instrument, the clans, and the sporran which he quipped is “a job offer.”
Sean and Hannah delighted us with jigs, reels, and a dance lesson. On request, they sang the theme from Outlander – “Sing me a song of a lass that is gone…” Inspired by their artistry, the thespian in Krishna emerged with an eloquent soliloquy to cap off the evening.
And at every meal, another surprise awaited: a competitive tablescape, perhaps with shells, fungi or florals, and always with creatively folded napkins. The finale? Tuxedo shaped napkins at the captain’s dinner. Precious moments abounded aboard the Spirit of Scotland.
Golf Charters
The Spirit of Scotland embodies the spirit of travelers. Private whole barge golf cruises are available on this and many more of the European Waterway barges. It includes 3-4 tee offs and at least four passengers must be playing golf. Non-golf players are welcome to join, of course. And there are plenty of options for them to do instead (follow the original Classic Cruise itinerary plan, explore at leisure on foot or on one of the barge bicycles, or something else to suit their interests which can be discussed at the time of booking).
Scottish Highlands Golf might include Cabot Highlands’ Stuart Castle Golf Course or Fortrose and Rosemarkie Golf Course among others, depending on the timing of the cruise.
2026 pricing for a 6-night cruise aboard the 12-passenger Spirit of Scotland starts at USD $6850 per person (based on 2 people sharing a cabin) and includes all gourmet meals, fine wines, an open bar for the duration of the cruise, daily escorted excursions, admissions, and private transfers at either end of the cruise. Full barge charters are available for families, groups and golfers. Charters are also available in Ireland, France and more.
Golf Yourself
You can always arrange a post or pre cruise golf holiday on your own. After the cruise, we rented a car for an overnight stay on the Isle of Skye, home to a fun 9-hole seaside course. Driving on the left side of the single-track mountain roads is so crazy it feels like a constant “break for impact” mode in the passenger seat, but worth the outstanding views.
We stopped in to check out Old Petty at Cabot Highlands, just opened for preview play, parallel to Castle Stuart which we enjoyed last year. It’s another magnificent gem with holes along Moray Firth and a couple up close to the caste. We also walked Fortrose Rosemarkie for the first time – a lovely track with a road between fairways for locals to visit the lighthouse and watch for dolphins.
As blasphemous as it might sound, we did not play golf this trip and it was one of our most spectacular journeys. We had played 11 rounds in 17 days in Scotland the previous year and will return for more golf, but we highly recommend the European Waterways barge cruises with or without the golf. Contact www.europeanwaterways.com for a trip of a lifetime with family, friends, fellow golfers or your own lucky selves.
