Author: Alice & Danny Scott
Danny and Alice are globe trotting and rediscovering America with a mission to bring alive the best of all destinations.
Sea views at every turn are the key to an extraordinary vacation, and pairing play at Rosapenna with a stay at Shandon Hotel & Spa is exactly what unlocks that kind of magic — easily arranged by GreenGolfBall.
Three full Irish links courses at Rosapenna in County Donegal, deliver a benuine workout for body and mind as you maneuver a push trolley over dunes and valleys chasing sea views around every corner.
Old Tom Morris
A long drive in from the road to the main clubhouse at Rosapenna builds the anticipation for the first tee drive, even on an icy, drizzly day. Benny the starter was in prime Irish form, joking about the weather and claiming he’s as old as Tom himself. He gave us the lay of the land and wished us well on our journey. We were grateful for our new Sunice gear to keep us warm and dry as we tackled the fairway moguls on our first Irish round of the year.
The front nine is a more recent design, with glimpses of water and herds of grazing sheep. Typical grass borders along the fairways made lost balls a possibility, not helped by the distraction of petite yellow and white wildflowers flanked by bursts of little purple pompoms.
Bunkers catch a few unsuspecting shots, though they’re easier to get out of compared to many Irish sand traps. There’s gorse of course, but it’s out of the way. Adjust for wind, rain, and the customary Irish climate as you climb toward the tee boxes for the next surprise on Old Tom Morris at Rosapenna.
Our favorite holes were the 8th, a testing downhill par 5, and the 11th, a bayside stretch. As with any proper links course, it’s “easy” to putt from the fairway with the tightly mown turf. Coming home on 18, the Clubhouse stands front and center, with Old Tom’s statue welcoming golfers back in.
Shandon Hotel & Spa
We were eager for the room reveal at the Shandon Hotel & Spa, where we’d be staying with a panoramic view over the Wild Atlantic Way. Just twenty-five minutes from Rosapenna, the hotel doubles as a popular wedding venue, and we found ourselves weaving through one on arrival. Guests dressed to the nines were gleefully posing for photos against a moody, drizzly backdrop of the bay.
Tara and “Wee Ryan” welcomed us at reception, as warmly as any resort staff we’ve encountered. They offered to take care of our bags, giving us the choice of the busy main lobby or a quieter side door.
Our room was prominently positioned, with wide windows framing a sweeping sea view past sheep grazing on the hillside. The fog rolled in, then lifted, unveiling islands and waves crashing against distant shores. Weather here is no deterrent. The beach is never abandoned, and strolls carry on with or without a dog in tow.
Clouds raced past each other, keeping pace with soaring seagulls, while the green rolling hills are filled with Sheep Detectives. (If you haven’t seen Hugh Jackman’s new movie by that title, it’s a fun one). It was amemorable bookended by a brilliant sunrise over the Irish Sea in Malahide and a glowing sunset over the Wild Atlantic Way.
The reception hall at Shandon serves as a living room for multigenerational family gatherings, and after a long day of beating the links at Rosapenna, dinner at Beat’s Bar hits the spot. The staff moved efficiently in and out of the kitchen, keeping the sea-view tables well-tended. Ryan embodies the essence of Irish hospitality, with a natural smile and gift of gab. He’d been rooting hard for Canada in the World Cup, and when they were eliminated, he broke the news over at the breakfast buffet the next morning, “It’s done.” Who next, we asked? “The USA, and it’s not just for your story,” he grinned. He’s happy to use his charm working on weekends now that he’s 15 and shared that In Ireland you can begin serving at 14. Wee Ryan is a natural, clearly destined for bigger things.
Sandy Hills Links at Rosapenna
Back at the main Rosapenna clubhouse, the starter shared a wealth of course knowledge that we promptly forgot, too busy being mesmerized by the cinematic scenery unfolding on every hole. There were more “Lambchops” grazing alongside wispy native grasses. The 3rd hole plays over a chasm of deep grass with Sheephaven Bay spanning beyond.
The course twists and turns through the dunes, and we slugged it out like the legendary snails trailing the fairways and greens with white tips on the tail of their long black bodies, horns at attention. Tall Irish hares darted in and out of the rough.
It’s a game of chutes and ladders within a grassy cauldron. The 6th is a blind tee shot, rewarded with wave action crashing beyond the green.
St Patrick’s Links, Rosapenna
On the 250th birthday of U.S. independence, we celebrated across the Atlantic on the Irish links at Rosapenna St. Patrick’s. The separate clubhouse sits just a few minutes from Shandon Hotel & Spa. It was, once again, a drizzly day, and once again, we were grateful for our Sunice rain gear.
Plenty of hikers walk the hills along the shore without any clubs, there purely for the views, rain or shine. Golfers get the bonus of experiencing the agony or ecstasy of every shot, plus the extra muscle toning from swinging and pushing a trolley over hill and dale.
The course rolls over hidden hills within hills until 5th finally fronts the sea. On the 12th, a fourball with caddies waved us through, perhaps, just to catch their own breath as we climbed up, up, and up the never-ending par 5 against the wind. One caddy agreed about the greens: “There were a lot of elephants buried under them, for sure.” He promised we’d love the 14th, and he was right. But first we had to finish the 12th and then further climb the 13th, after which you might feel thoroughly drawn and quartered. Then the jaw dropping view of the ocean revives you. The spectacle carries through to the 16th, then you can finish with a couple nice pars or birdies for a stellar round.
Beach Hopping
After golf, beach hopping and scenic drives top the list when the fog isn’t playing peekaboo with the landscape. There are plenty of local vistas, castles, and lighthouses worth chasing on a clearer day, but even when the mist rolls in, but Shandon is the coziest spot to watch it play hide-and-seek with a view that never gets old. Watch the waves and sheep, or warm up by a fireplace. Enjoy the saunas and jacuzzi at the spa and leisure area.
Pub Bopping
No trip to Ireland is complete without a pub or two, and the small village of Dunfanaghy has a handful worth visiting. Patsy Dan’s offers a warm fireplace after a chilly, rain-soaked round. The Whiskey Fly Bar at Arnolds Hotel has a great restaurant with special Sunday dinners. The Oyster Bar is the spot for fish and chips. All the pubs are perfect for a pint with or without alcohol, a dram, and a chat with the locals.
In County Donegal, this second leg of our Irish golf trip was thoroughly conquered and thoroughly enjoyed, thanks to the arrangements of GreenGolfBall. They take care of golfers in Ireland and beyond, with curated packages for couples and large groups alike. They recently launched Signature Departures, where guests join a coach, meet new people, and avail of guaranteed tee times and accommodation. A couples’ Departure in the west/northwest region is also available on their website.
We loved their pairing of Rosapenna Resort Golf and the Shandon Hotel Spa for a complete Irish experience. At the end of the day, all that’s left to do is flip the sign on the bedroom door that says, “Shhhhhh, counting sheep.”
