By Danny and Alice Scott

Natchez rhymes with “matches” and is a unique little town on the mighty Mississippi River in the southwest corner of the Magnolia State. It is, in fact, the oldest settlement along the entire Mississippi River and seems to have been stewarded by the Garden Club ladies for decades— ever since they banded together to save the town after the Great Depression with historical estate tours. Southern hospitality was born.

The Natchez Visitor Center sits high on the bank of the Mississippi River and is filled with brochures and a film documentary revealing the good and bad through the years. The region has been shaped by the Natchez tribe, as well as French, British and Spanish influences. Today, it’s a friendly blend of music, and food loving folks.

Tour Highlights
Beside the Visitor Center is Bluff Park, a gift from the Spanish, with green lawns and lookout points over the river where cruise ships can be spotted when docked. Town tours are available by car or horse and carriage. Noelle, with the original Pilgrimage Garden Club (PGC), conducted our driving tour of the town, which included magnificent antebellum homes.

PGC owns two of the most famous—Stanton Hall, which serves as their headquarters and Longwood, which was begun before the war but never completed when the men left to fight, leaving their tools behind. Those tools remain to this day. The home is nonetheless majestic and used for many ceremonial occasions.

The Green Leaves home is the only one owned by the same family for generations and is full of treasures, while Twin Oaks was formerly owned by Chef Regina Charboneau and across the street is Dunleith Historic Inn and Restaurant. Other notable residents over time include Octavia Spencer and the producer of The Help.
Rosalie Mansion stages hot air balloons on its grounds during the annual festival, and this year’s 41st Natchez Balloon Festival will be held in October.

History is recited along the route, including how the French and Natchez people once coexisted, until the French asked for too much. The Natchez requested the French’s weapons for a hunt, then turned to kill them and as the story is told, “the French got their just dues”. The courthouse is also featured, where public hangings once took place, and in numerous areas, Mark Twain left his mark. For gamers, the Magnolia Bluffs Casino is right on the river.

The oldest Catholic Church in Mississippi stands in grandeur as a Basilica (in case the pope wants to visit) while not far away is the Jewish Temple which still has 15 members. The train depot was converted into luxury condos in case you visit and decide to stay, adding to the current population of around 15,000.

Lodging
Numerous hotels, both new and historic, are available, but The Guest House in the heart of town epitomizes Natchez’s historic charm. Circa 1840, its front porch and columns invite guests inside, where elegant antique décor fills every bedroom. We enjoyed the outdoor patio after dinner with friends, and thankfully, no ghosts appeared overnight.

Cuisine
On tour, we passed by Fat Mama’s, known for hot tamales and “Knock-You-Naked” margaritas, but we dined at Biscuits and Blues, which features live music on weekends. On any given night, tourists and locals mingle in unforgettable ways. Owner Ann, from Thailand and her husband chef, aim to please with a varied menu including gumbo, po’boys, grits, fried oysters, and biscuits—natch.

Golf Natchez Golf Club at Duncan Park
Natchez Golf Club is a fun track, and a train runs through it. Seymour Dunn, a Scottish golf coach designed the first nine holes back in 1916, three holes at a time. Over a century of play hasn’t diminished its charm, and it’s fun to imagine walking in the footsteps of Walter Hagen, Sam Snead and Babe Zaharias in the 1920s and ‘30s.

Across the tracks, Brian Ault designed the second nine in 1993, with holes as scenic as any in Mississippi. The course is a forested wonderland, with ponds decorated by water iris. Green fees are $14 and cart fees are $15 per 18 holes, yes really. It’s the deal of a century.

Greg Brooking, the CEO and certified superintendent of 35 years, oversees all operations with Poppy, his Australian Shepherd, by his side. Greg is proud of the annual Norman Puckett Jr. Tournament, held June13-15. It’s World Amateur-ranked for boys and girls ages 9-18 and draws college scouts. Winners pull in substantial dough, a giant crystal trophy, and engraved golf bag – not to mention the bragging rights.

Another round might be booked at the semi-private Beau Pré Country Club, designed by Mike Young. That’s for our mulligan trip.

Under the Hill
Greg lives with his wife Under the Hill, on the riverfront below the bluff. The drive down is lined with poppies, planted by Greg, and he jokingly calls himself the mayor, noting that he and his wife are the only two people who reside there, above her boutique gift shop.

Their living room doubles as a jam session space, with a window overlooking the bridge, as Greg welcomes fellow musicians to improvise. Next door is the oldest bar in Mississippi; its ceiling covered in dollar bills. The Camp restaurant rounds out the fun Under the Hill where cruise ships stop for a day tour of Natchez. At the end of the road an Inn, also owned by Greg, offers an intimate River experience.

Natchez has evolved through the decades, naturally, while preserving its historical culture. Make it a cruise stop, or drive in from New Orleans, Gulfport, or Jackson, Mississippi, just 2- 3.5 hours away. https://visitnatchez.org/