Author: Northeast Golf Staff
By Danny and Alice Scott
During our first round in Austria, a real cuckoo called from the forest, exactly like the bird that pops out of your grandparents’ clock every hour. “What time is it?” we’d ask each other throughout the trip. Time to golf. Time to relax. Time to eat. Above all, it was time to discover Austria.
The heart of Austrian golf lies in the southwest section of Carinthia (or to the Austrians, Carinzia and Kärnten), because it has a longer golf season from mid-March to November. Austrians will tell you Kärnten is where childhood happens–learning to ski in winter, swim in summer and skate whenever the lake freezes over.
Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa Carinzia is a winter ski resort with 111 km ski slopes, catering in the off season to golfers and nature lovers, and year round it serves as a conference center. From the end of June to fall the ski lift carries hikers to the mountain top for a different view while nearby golf clubs enhance golfers’ walks.
Time for Golf
Nassfeld Golf’s slogan is “a nice surprise,” and there are many along the only course in Austria designed by Gary Player. The first hole marks his accomplishment with a boulder and sword from the Black Knight. The layout curves through the valley of the ski gods, surrounded by mountain sentinels with a ski lift chair and flag adorning the third tee box. Rakes are propped on stakes next to bunkers which are so shallow, that some by the green may be putted into the hole. Number 7 is the signature dogleg with water crossings and a wooden bridge, while 13 has a wishing well for birdies to be summoned.
Many streams are bordered with blue forget me nots and forget them we will not. While carts are available, this flat but long course presents a good time to walk off the extra poundage of wiener schnitzel and cream cake, just to name a couple regional specialties on the Falkensteiner buffet.
Time to Relax
After golf, it’s time to unwind on the patio with a beer or wine – white being the region’s specialty – a crisp, fresh, dry white. On the extensive course menus are Austrian Kasnudeln (half-moon pastries filled with savory potatoes and cheese that Austrian gals must learn to make if they wish to marry) or spaghetti bolognese to replace the energy burned.
Falkensteiner Carinizia offers relaxing guest rooms with a village or mountain view in different sizes, all spacious to varying degrees up to the huge family or spa suite. The spa provides an outdoor pool (bathing suits required), saunas (clothing optional beware, so decide if you decline or dare) and treatments. Begin the day or end it with a superb buffet inside or al fresco on the terrace.
More Golf Time
Schloss Finkenstein Golf Club is like playing Banff without the elk herds. Fink is a bird of which there are plenty on this alpine delight along with sporadic village homes and goats ringing little bells around their necks, none of which impedes the way.
Mountains are inspirational with a steeple chase of a different kind atop churches in the distance. Wildflower meadows border the fairways, and “verboten” (forbidden) signs politely remind golfers to admire them rather than wander in, looking for errant balls. Fuchsia lilies on pads in the pond are a brilliant color Monet never imagined.
It’s a par 5 to start and a crazy par 5 to finish, hitting twice over water, blindly to the green which butts up to the marsh. Markus Polessnig calls it the “Amen hole of Austria.” You need several “toller Schlag” (good shots) to save your score.
More Falkensteiner Time
Lakeside castle luxury with rose garden courtyards welcomes guests at Falkensteiner Schlosshotel Velden. It has a full European spa and a beach house where you can step into the water and swim away with no worries of sharks or crocs.
It’s a fresh time –fresh is the air, the fish, the vegetables. Every product is locally sourced, cooked and served with care. The Restaurant Seespitz steakhouse delivers every dish with finesse, including lake fish, right off the hook.
Franz Klammer
The famous Franz Klammer (Olympian and World Cup downhill skier) joined us for dinner.
Franz grew up on a farm a few miles away and still resides there when he’s not traveling the world representing his beloved Kärnten. And he loves golf. He plays in many charity tournaments including the American Century Championship at Edgewater Tahoe Golf Course with Michael Jordan where he had a crazy, televised water shot on 18 that bounced back onto the green for an eagle. A friend and student of Peter Kostis, (as well as Godfather to his son), Franz once came in 2 under at Augusta and would have played with our group at Golf Club Klagenfurt-Seltenheim if the rain had not over saturated the course. We moved to indoor golf as you might during inclement weather and Franz met his desired match with Danny, playing his first simulator on the Augusta’s public course, fun for all.
Franz knows all three of the qualified fishermen on Lake Wörthersee and asked who caught the Seespitz menu special before making his choice.
Lake and Golf Time
Kärntner Golf Club in Dellach is a few minutes away and celebrating its Centennial next year. Some go by car but it’s more fun by boat, sailing to Velden town over Lake Wörthersee. Among the famed lake residences are Mrs. Flick, the richest woman of Austria, the Porsche, and the Glock families. Who knew the gun makers were Carinthian? It’s a bit ironic given the strict Austrian gun laws, but exports to the US are plenty.
The first hole at Kärntner sets the stage with an elevated tee box just steps from the clubhouse and a babbling brook midway to the par 4 green. Babbling brooks flow throughout with chirping birds and stunning wildflowers among the woodlands.
Number 10 looks like Franz Klammer might have designed it for a slalom course and hole 12 ascends with a wide view of the lake that in full sun, shines a Caribbean blue hue. Shall we play or picnic? First, it’s time to finish because this course is too good to miss a single hole. The 18th is another unforgettable grand finale, this time a long par 3 hole where the fairway crosses the driving range and the green backs up directly to the short practice area. Golfers ring a giant bell to notify the rehearsing golfers of their pursuit. Golf etiquette with a soundtrack.
The patio serves as gallery seating for both the first and last holes with the usual wide variety of food on the menu and bolognese the lunch special.
Beach Club
There’s plenty of time to play, lunch and then nap at the Falkensteiner’s beach club in thick cushioned lounge chairs, personally draped with a cover and pillow by attentive young Austrians delighted to practice their English. The front row comes with the best show on the lake – sailboats, speedboats, hoverboards, and a few steps down, you’re swimming through crystal-clear spring water. Or go by the pool if you prefer. Pick a pool by the lake or at the spa, pick a spa treatment or go Austrian in the saunas. Make time to walk along the shore or shop along the street. It feels like Austria’s answer to Lake Tahoe but with more castles and fewer traffic jams.
Stay for an extended time and the Alpe-Adria-Golf Card offers discounts at 15 courses in Austria, Royal Bled in Slovenia, or in Italy, where some say the food is better than the golf.
Travel Time
Fly into Ljubljana, Slovenia, less than an hour away or fly into Vienna and take the lovely train ride south to Villach. After a transatlantic flight, your internal clock may be just as cuckoo as the birds. So, spend a couple nights in Vienna or Ljubljana adjusting. Learn a little German with Austrian slang or go with Italian –ciao, ciao, they say is close enough. We say Danke schön and Auf Wiedersehen to Carinthia Austria, until next time.
Vienna Time
Vienna feels like one enormous open-air museum, where domes, cathedral spires, Baroque palaces and Art Nouveau architecture compete for your attention around every corner. Take the Hop on/hop off bus for a full tour of options and then get lost for surprising treats. Perhaps visit Freud’s former office, where he practiced before escaping to England while four of his four sisters tragically perished in the holocaust, a stark reminder of history.
Bonus Time
Europeans think Americans are crazy for driving so many hours. They’re probably right. But after flying across the “big pond,” we like to squeeze every mile out of the trip. We rented a car in Ljubljana, stopping at Royal Bled, wandering Budapest, soaking in Heviz’s largest thermal lake in the world, and played more memorable rounds at the immaculately conditioned Zala Springs Golf Club and Balaton Golf Club with stupendous views of the Balaton Lake, known as the Hungarian Sea.
Croatia was a worthy splurge exploring islands along Split and the old town in Dubrovnik, swimming in the silky Adriatic and hiking Plitvice Lakes National Park with other worldly waterfalls. Whether you travel by car, train or plane, set your own pace. But be sure to make time for golf in Kärnten.
Austria proved that the best trips aren’t measured in hours. They’re measured in moments. Our whole trip perpetually clocked a good time. visitcarinthia.at/golf
